TIM PRESTON: Ribs reviewed and end of an era 7/4/10

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July 8, 2010

Tim Preston The Independent The Daily Independent Thu Jul 08, 2010, 03:21 PM EDT

ASHLAND — If there were an actual barbecue bible (in fact, there are several), I heard the first verse quoted perfectly during a recent nonair-conditioned driving tour into the Big Sandy Valley.

“The meat should speak for itself and you put sauce on it as a complement,” said Christian Clark at Absolute BBQ, along U.S. 23 near the exit for Highlands Regional Medical Center in Floyd County.

Clark moved to this area from Charlotte, N.C., where barbecue is certainly a religion. One taste of his pulled pork, chicken, beef brisket and ribs was all it took to conclude he was paying attention to the preachers. And, he’s so confident in his food he offers free samples of it before asking anyone to spend money.

Clark relies on a dry rub, combined with low heat and lots of smoke to develop his signature flavor. He also does something (he wouldn’t tell me the secret) to get that smoke flavor all the way to the inner-most parts of the meat.

He provides three different barbecue sauces (classic, sweet and hot/spicy) to complement his meats, as well as seasonal vegetables that are also cooked in the smoker.

Clark gave me a generous sample of his ribs and I took the package to a nearby office where I knew I could find a couple of people who would be brutally honest about what they thought of it. Those ribs passed with flying colors, based on considerations including taste, tenderness, moistness and appearance — leaving a tough audience with smiles and personal plans to visit the roadside restaurant.

Looking over the menu for Absolute BBQ, I noticed something I have to try the next time I’m there — the Trinity Sandwich, which combines Clark’s pulled pork, pulled chicken and beef brisket on a bun.

In addition to the menu items, Clark said he smokes other meats, such as lamb, for anyone who appreciates his craft. Absolute BBQ is open from 10:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. For more information or to place an order, call (606) 889-6462.

Closing soon

One of downtown Ashland’s oldest businesses, Stump’s Hallmark, will be closing its doors in the weeks ahead.

I’ll be writing the story for future publication but wanted to pass along that the shop at 1613 Winchester Ave. already has some serious discounts on top-shelf merchandise.

Call (606) 324-1311 for more information, or just drop by and browse the store’s extensive selection.

TIM PRESTON can be reached at tpreston@dailyindependent.com or (606) 326-2651.

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TIM PRESTON: Ribs reviewed and end of an era 7/4/10

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